timeruins
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« Reply #30 on: January 30, 2008, 09:53:48 PM » |
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no, i mean the "repeats" and "mix" knobs
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rjl
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #31 on: January 31, 2008, 10:52:44 AM » |
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"marked '123' "
this is labeled just to tell you to remove the 3rd one, its not a value
steven Oops... I wasn't clear. I was referring to the Repeats resistor (connected to the rightmost lug of the Rep. pot). You can't really see it with the naked eye, but if you take a good-sized photo (macro helps), that resistor is marked '123', signifying it's value. (Can't tell from that photo, as I had to size it down considerably). Sorry about that... |
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rjl
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #32 on: January 31, 2008, 11:05:35 AM » |
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no, i mean the "repeats" and "mix" knobs I'd say maybe look at the Rebote's schematic (there is no Mix knob, but the volume and feedback are 50k, if I recall). However, this also may depend on what fixed resistors are in the path... and I don't have the larger version of the photo I took of the Echo's board handy for comparison. I'd say maybe use a multimeter... If the knobs are still on the pedal, and you're looking down at it (standard playing position), turn them all the way to the right and test the resistance. As for re-wiring them, if you are going to re-house the pedal (and put the pots on the top/face of the unit), they actually are wired in a sensible manner - a counter-clockwise turn will increase the resistance (i.e. decrease the wet:dry ratio; decrease the repeats). (Just pick up the pedal and turn it so that the pots are facing up, the top/stomp switch is facing towards you, and you'll see what I mean). If you're going to keep it in the Fab housing, with the pots pointing out the back, a re-wire might not be a bad idea, as we're in most applications we're used to seeing pots head-on (e.g. volume pots, eq pots, etc.) and it's become a natural assumption that clockwise = increase and counter = decrease...) Hope this clears things up a bit / that I didn't get anything too backwards (I'm at work right now). |
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timeruins
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #33 on: January 31, 2008, 11:40:38 AM » |
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yeah, me too! i am still waiting for the fab echo to arrive in the mail. i was just wondering if thoes factory knobs were crap and if i should order replacement good ones before i get going (i hate having to pause a project to wait for something to come in the mail.
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rjl
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #34 on: January 31, 2008, 11:57:51 AM » |
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I'm going to replace the pots, esp. since the shafts on the stock ones are plastic. And while I'm not sure about the quality, I figure anything I buy/have kicking around can't really be worse. And I can orient them better (i.e. on the face of the box).
When I get around to testing the stock ones, I'll post the values...
Not sure if I'm going to yank the old ones, per se. If I get a bad feeling about removing them (feeling like I might get clumsy and inadvertently cause some damage), I'll just try soldering leads between the lugs on the new pots to the points where the lugs of the old correspond to, and keep the old ones set at open / no res.
I might actually do that first, as a learning experience - and b/c if it works, then I don't need to bother with removing the old ones at all...
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timeruins
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #35 on: February 01, 2008, 04:16:49 PM » |
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hey, i got mine today but the board layout is slightly different, could anyone tell me which resistor limits the delay time?
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para
phpBB Member
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« Reply #36 on: February 01, 2008, 07:09:07 PM » |
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maybe with a photo but just short both ends of any resistor you think might be it and it and if you have the delay set long then you should hear it get really long after shorting it. then toss a switch in there to short the res or just pull it out.
steven
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timeruins
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #37 on: February 01, 2008, 10:05:09 PM » |
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so, i also want to TB the fab echo but when it gets power it starts off bypassed instead of on - so i cant just leave the switch alone, any ideas?
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para
phpBB Member
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« Reply #38 on: February 01, 2008, 10:46:46 PM » |
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it uses a flipflop i think right. hmmm maybe try to figure out how to hardwire it on and then use that with the true bypass setup. look for the chip model and then get the datasheet, then trace out the power.
steven
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timeruins
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #39 on: February 02, 2008, 09:22:17 AM » |
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ok, i got it... on the circuit board with the switch and the output jacks find the 14 pin chip. wire a jumper between pin 5 and pin 14. now the effect will be always on and can be true bypassed.
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para
phpBB Member
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« Reply #40 on: February 02, 2008, 09:40:12 PM » |
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is the chip a 4013 ?
sounds like you go it, nice work
steven
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timeruins
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #41 on: February 02, 2008, 09:59:47 PM » |
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yeah, i believe it was that chip. i just finished my mod/rehouse, i have been working on it since 9am and it is now 11pm... but it sounds great. i gave it a battery starve in addition to the mods listed and gave it a 2nd stomper to push the feedback into self osc. looks and sounds great, it will be traded off to a guy i know in exchange for a website for me (i'm totally web illeterate)
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rjl
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #42 on: February 03, 2008, 08:37:05 PM » |
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Thanks for the tip re: jumpering the 4013. Nearly went blind tracing the wires that join the two boards. Might just go with that, and keep both boards inside.
(Although, I think the wires go... red, blue = led, yellow = board out, white = board in, gray = ground.)
Hopefully parts will be in on Tues......
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brokebust
phpBB Junior Member
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« Reply #43 on: February 25, 2008, 12:59:20 PM » |
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I got one of these and they're sweet.
So far:
1 - I've soldered a bridge over the wetness limiting resistor.
2 - installed a 470k pot over the delay time.
2 - (like rjl suggested) I've soldered in a "safety" switch replacing the feedback limiting resistor. This switch goes between a straight wire bridge and a wire with a series of resistors (8.9kohm*) - this flips the feedback knob (set at max) to either true maximum or a value just before true feedback starts.
Now I really want to re-house it entirely - so I have some questions:
1 - has anyone found the values of the pots yet? B103 and A104? Is there a reliable way of finding their values without removing them?
2 - what kind of switch is the on-ff switch? It appears to have 4 solder connections.
*This value was what worked for me - it's made from the following resistors in series: 4.7k, 2.2k, 1k, 1k. A single 10k didn't allow enough repeats and 7.9kohm was still permitting true feedback. I could have honed in closer on the value but it didn't seem important enough once I got as close as I did!
Also, @rjl, my wetness knob makes noise when it's turned up full now also - I don't think your soldering is to blame, it's just that when it's turned up full the wetness is so loud its noise floor is very high.
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para
phpBB Member
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« Reply #44 on: February 25, 2008, 01:09:57 PM » |
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B103 = linear 10,000
A104 = log 100,000
B = linear
A = log
note: 10 + the number of 0's
so if it said B223 then it would be linear 22,000
"It appears to have 4 solder connections"
but are they all used? usually just 2 are and the others are used to hold it in place and sometimes just connect to ground
the switch works with a flipflop, the 4013 i think and if you want to use something else it will have to be defeated which rjl did so follow his/her notes…are there any females around here? i don’t want to upset anyone by assuming that everyone is male
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