Danelectro true bypassing

[expanoncolin]

Well I guess that answers that part.  So were am I at.  Hooking up in the fashion I did doesn't work.  Have a advice for me in getting this thing off the ground?  

LED control (brown)

If you can't get it to work using the switching board wires, you can just use the switching board. What I posted should explain how to do it with the wires-I can't really help if that isn't working, it has worked for me a dozen times.

-Colin

[Wild Zebra]

I can't really help if that isn't working, it has worked for me a dozen times.

well I guess I can't argue with ya there.

thanks

[diyjesus]

Send (blue)
9V (green)
Ground (yellow)
No-bypass Send (orange)
Return (red)
LED control (brown)

No-bypass send is essentially a wire that always contains the input signal, regardless of whether the effect is bypassed or not.  It's used in some pedals (just the chicken salad as far as I know) and not in others.  If you look at the effect board and it is not connected to anything, you can just cut that wire.  

This seems to be an old thread but a rather interesting one to me at the moment as i have just finished converting my Mini Dano Pastrami to a Marshall Guvnor.
To my understanding the Orange wire carried +4.5V for the opamps non-inverting input bias and i have used it for the same for the guvnor circuit now built on the same board and its working. However, even when bypassed the signal does go through the circuit as i can see the clipping LED's lighting up.

[alex_spaceman]

Hi everyone,

I'm reviving this old thread to raise a couple questions as I have a French Toast I'd love to rehouse but there's a couple questions that still haunt me. Any input/help would be much appreciated.

If I use the rainbow wires to true bypass it to the send/return, would removing the switching PCB ensure that the pedal circuit is permanently on as power is sent to the pedal?

Also, am a bit lost about the ground referenced signal bit. How can I achieve it? Any links/suggestions regarding that?

And lastly, on a different note, is there any reason why I couldn't add a "sag" pot by including this ( http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/DBS/ ) circuit straight inside the pedal?

Thanks,
Alex

[expanoncolin]

If I use the rainbow wires to true bypass it to the send/return, would removing the switching PCB ensure that the pedal circuit is permanently on as power is sent to the pedal?

As long as you connect power to the main board where it originally was (green wire according to my post), you'll be fine and power will always be supplied.

Also, am a bit lost about the ground referenced signal bit. How can I achieve it? Any links/suggestions regarding that?

Your signal will be ground-referenced as-is.  "Ground-referenced" just means, in this context, that you don't need to put any additional circuitry - just connect the input jack to the main board.

And lastly, on a different note, is there any reason why I couldn't add a "sag" pot by including this ( http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/DBS/ ) circuit straight inside the pedal?

You could certainly put in a sag control.  Just wire the +V from your power jack to the center lug of a pot (looks like beavis uses 10k) and wire one of the side lugs to the main board +V input.

-Colin

[alex_spaceman]

If I use the rainbow wires to true bypass it to the send/return, would removing the switching PCB ensure that the pedal circuit is permanently on as power is sent to the pedal?

As long as you connect power to the main board where it originally was (green wire according to my post), you'll be fine and power will always be supplied.

Perfect, thanks.

Also, am a bit lost about the ground referenced signal bit. How can I achieve it? Any links/suggestions regarding that?

Your signal will be ground-referenced as-is.  "Ground-referenced" just means, in this context, that you don't need to put any additional circuitry - just connect the input jack to the main board.

Easy as pie then. For some reason I thought it wasn't the case, and that had to be addressed.

And lastly, on a different note, is there any reason why I couldn't add a "sag" pot by including this ( http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/DBS/ ) circuit straight inside the pedal?

You could certainly put in a sag control.  Just wire the +V from your power jack to the center lug of a pot (looks like beavis uses 10k) and wire one of the side lugs to the main board +V input.

-Colin

Will make sure I'll stick one of those in then

One last quick thing, is there a way to put an LED for the octave on/off footswitch? I imagine the simple DPDT wouldn't do for that purpose?

Thanks!

[expanoncolin]

A DPDT should work fine - assuming that the octave switch is an SPDT by default, which I think it is.

-Colin

[alex_spaceman]

Good stuff.
Will get the parts in as the pay check arrives and will let you know if everything works as it should.
Thank you so much for the help!

[marmora]

Rehousing a PB&J.
Couple of questions about the long/short switch.
So far I've cut the trace to turn off the flip flop so I can do TB switching. Just trying to figure out if there are any more traces to cut and how to wire a DPDT to the PT2395 for long/short operation. Is it just a matter of lifting pin 20, connecting the middle lug of a SPDT (or DPDT) to pin 20, connecting the outer lugs to 5v and ground, and placing a 47k resistor between 5v and pin 20? This is what appears to be going on in the STC.

Also, I was considering using two potentiometers in series for the delay time (speed) control. Have you ever tried this? If so, what did you think? I know you went with a different configuration for the STC, but I figured I'd ask.

[expanoncolin]

If you follow the comments on http://experimentalistsanonymous.com/board/index.php?topic=491.0 you shouldn't have any trouble.  Cut the trace, then cut leg 10 on the 4013, and wire a jumper from it to leg 8.  Then you can just use the original short/long switch.  Or, you can cut the trace from leg 20 on the PT2395, and wire a switch as it is on the S-TC schematic like you mentioned.  I don't remember why I added the 47k resistor but it was probably for good reason.  I have done two pots in series for delay time control.  I believe I tried a lot of different stuff... maybe start with 20k and 5k in series, also try different tapers depending on how the response is.

-Colin